Lebanon

A Lebanese friend from college put me in touch with one of his friends in Beirut, Sami, who offered to show me around the capital, where elegant French-influenced neighborhoods stand alongside the scars of conflict. We visited the site of the devastating 2020 port explosion and spoke about the country’s economic collapse, which wiped out the life savings of countless families. It was a sobering reminder that history isn’t something you only read about. For many people, it’s still unfolding every day.

One of the highlights of my trip came when I hired a local driver named Imad to explore eastern Lebanon. We drove to the Syrian border, which, at the time, was the closest I ever thought I’d come to visiting Syria because Americans were still banned from entering. As we explored the region, we stopped at a Syrian refugee camp, where it was heartbreaking to see children growing up in such difficult conditions. We eventually reached Baalbek, home to some of the most spectacular Roman ruins I’ve ever seen.

A year later, after Syria reopened to American travelers, I returned to Lebanon as my gateway into Syria. It was great to see Sami again and spend more time exploring Beirut. Lebanon reminded me that a country can be both breathtaking and deeply troubled at the same time, and that understanding both sides is essential to truly understanding a place.