Papua New Guinea

Papua New Guinea’s biggest draw is its highlands, home to fascinating remote tribes and some of the country’s most spectacular landscapes. Unfortunately, with limited time and budget, exploring that part of the country wasn’t possible on this trip. Instead, my Argentinian friend Rama and I spent a few days in the capital, Port Moresby, as we made our way through the Pacific. Widely regarded as one of the world’s most dangerous capitals, nearly every local we spoke with warned us not to walk around alone at night and, in certain neighborhoods, even during the day. The city had a tense atmosphere, and it was easy to understand why people were so cautious.

One thing I couldn’t stop noticing was betel nut, a mild stimulant that is deeply ingrained in Papua New Guinean culture. People chew it throughout the day before spitting out a bright red juice. Personally, I found it pretty disgusting. The streets and sidewalks were covered with crimson stains, and it seemed like people were constantly spitting wherever they went. It became one of the strongest memories I took away from Port Moresby.

We still managed to explore some of the beautiful countryside surrounding Port Moresby, including a waterfall just outside the city. Even so, I knew my first visit hadn’t done Papua New Guinea justice. As I’ve learned throughout my travels, a country should never be defined by its capital alone. Instead, it’s often the places beyond it that reveal its true character.