Solomon Islands

The Solomon Islands consist of more than 900 islands scattered across the South Pacific, with Guadalcanal, home to the capital of Honiara, being the largest. Like many capitals in the Pacific, Honiara wasn’t especially memorable. One thing I noticed immediately, however, was the prevalence of betel nut, a mild stimulant that is deeply ingrained in local culture. As I had also seen in Papua New Guinea, people chew it throughout the day before spitting out a bright red juice. Despite signs reminding people not to spit, crimson stains covered much of the city’s sidewalks.

While Honiara wasn’t particularly nice, outside the capital was a completely different story. My Argentinian friend Rama and I had planned a few stops together as we made our way across the Pacific, and he joined me for a day trip to Parangiju Mountain Lodge, a family-run homestay tucked away in the rainforest. While there, we hiked through the jungle, crossed streams and muddy trails, and reached a spectacular waterfall hidden deep in the forest. We had the entire place to ourselves, and it felt like one of the most untouched places I’d visited anywhere in the world. As I came to realize over the years, some of the most magical places aren’t the ones everyone has heard of. They’re the ones that few people ever make the effort to reach.