Syria

When I first began my journey to visit every country in the world, Syria wasn’t even an option. Because of the country’s political situation, Americans couldn’t obtain tourist visas. Years later, that finally changed. After weeks of waiting, Fadi, often referred to as the godfather of Syrian tourism, secured my visa. I flew into Beirut and crossed the border overland into a country I’d long wondered if I’d ever have the chance to see.

My visit took place during the final years of Bashar al-Assad’s rule, and his presence was impossible to ignore. Right after crossing the border, I saw his portrait everywhere, from government buildings and hotels to restaurants and roadside billboards. It was unlike anything I’d ever seen, a constant reminder of how deeply an oppressive government can permeate everyday life.

Fadi, who belongs to Syria’s Christian minority, insisted I begin my trip with his family in the mountain village of Maaloula during its annual summer festival. Experiencing a Christian celebration in a country so often associated solely with Islam offered a perspective on Syria I never expected. Even more special was the way Fadi treated me. Rather than feeling like a tourist, I felt like a member of his family.

From there, we traveled to Aleppo. Even after visiting over 130 countries, I’d never seen destruction on the scale I witnessed there. Entire neighborhoods had been reduced to rubble during years of fighting. Walking through the shattered streets was heartbreaking. Yet amid the devastation, life continued. Shopkeepers reopened their businesses, families rebuilt what they could, and children still found places to play. It was one of the clearest examples of human resilience I’d ever witnessed.

We also visited the ancient city of Bosra. Although parts of the surrounding city were damaged during the war, it remains home to one of the best-preserved Roman theaters in the world. Over the years, I’ve come to realize that many of the most impressive Roman ruins aren’t actually in Italy, but are scattered across the former reaches of the Roman Empire. Bosra is undoubtedly one of them.

I finished my journey in Damascus, whose old city is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever explored. Wandering its narrow alleyways, historic mosques, churches, and bustling souqs felt like stepping into another era. What stayed with me most, though, was the kindness of the Syrian people. Along with the Iraqis, they were among the warmest and most welcoming people I met anywhere in the world.

The following year, the Assad regime that had ruled Syria for decades finally fell. For friends like Fadi, a Christian, the future suddenly became uncertain. But for many Syrians who had endured decades of repression, imprisonment, and violence, it also represented the possibility of a new beginning. I hope the years ahead bring the peace, stability, and opportunity that the Syrian people have been denied for far too long.