Lithuania

Getting to Lithuania from Belarus during the war in Ukraine was anything but smooth. My friends Harry, Kieran, Vahab, and I caught a nighttime bus to Vilnius, one we barely made thanks to a police escort from a pair of Belarusian officers. The journey itself was slow, with several hours spent waiting at the Belarusian-Lithuanian border for immigration and security checks. We considered ourselves lucky. Some people trying to cross by car had reportedly been waiting for days because of the restrictions brought on by the war. Watching the border process unfold was eye-opening. While my sympathy was, of course, with Ukraine, I was also struck by how ordinary Belarusians, many of whom may never have supported the conflict, were living with its consequences every day.

By the time we finally reached Vilnius, it was a welcome chance to slow down. Of the three Baltic capitals, it ended up being my favorite. I wandered through the old town, admired the views from the castle overlooking the city, and visited the self-declared Republic of Užupis, a quirky artistic neighborhood with its own constitution, flag, and even a symbolic passport, despite being very much a part of Lithuania.

After several intense months traveling through places like Iran, Russia, and Belarus, it felt good to simply relax with friends for a few days. Harry, Kieran, and I even spent one night out together, probably drinking more than we should have. Having worked in Miami’s nightlife industry during college, I thought I could still handle a night like that, but the next day suggested otherwise. We spent much of it recovering before continuing the next leg of our journey.